Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits.

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.

Clinical and metagenomic profiling of hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations.

INTRODUCTION: Acne is one of the most common skin concerns of unknown etiology, often connected to the menstrual cycle in women, and possibly to the microbial profile and function. OBJECTIVE: We aimed to investigate how hormonal fluctuation affects hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations in relation to skin clinical parameters and microbial profiles. METHODS: We evaluated skin features by using biophysical and topographical tools. For microbial profiling, we sequenced facial skin microbiota and associated the findings with the skin clinical parameters during the different phases of the menstrual cycle. RESULTS: We identified differences between and within hormonal phases in women of Chinese and Caucasian origin. Changes were discovered in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, hydration level, and pore volume. The most abundant identifiable genera in both ethnicities were Cutibacterium, Staphylococcus, and Streptococcus, without any significant abundant differences within the menstrual cycle. Interestingly, 11 bacterial metabolic pathways were downregulated in Chinese compared to Caucasian skin during the follicular phase. The majority of these pathways were associated with skin redox balance, perhaps indicating a weaker oxidative stress response in Chinese versus Caucasian skin. Novosphingobium taxa were increased in the Chinese skin microbiome, which has been reported to protect skin from pollution-mediated oxidative stress. CONCLUSION: Thus, this pilot study explored some of the clinical and metagenomic changes in acne-prone skin, and provide guidance to tailor-personalized skin care regimes during the menstrual cycle. Also, the skin redox status in acne-prone skin, provides more opportunity to tailor-personalized skin care regimes.

tBHP treatment as a model for cellular senescence and pollution-induced skin aging.

Accumulation of senescent cells promotes the development of age-related pathologies and deterioration. In human skin, senescent cells potentially impair structure and function by secreting a mixture of signaling molecules and proteases that influence neighboring cells and degrade extracellular matrix components, such as elastin and collagen. One of the key underlying mechanisms of senescence and extrinsic skin aging is the increase of intracellular reactive oxygen species and resulting oxidative stress. Tert-butyl hydroperoxide (tBHP) is a known inducer of oxidative stress and cellular damage, acting at least in part by depleting the antioxidant glutathione. Here, we provide a detailed characterization of tBHP-induced senescence in human dermal fibroblasts in monolayer culture. In addition, results obtained with more physiological experimental models revealed that tBHP treated 3D reconstructed skin and ex vivo skin developed signs of chronic tissue damage, displaying reduced epidermal thickness and collagen fiber thinning. We, therefore, propose that tBHP treatment can be used as a model to study the effects of extrinsic skin aging, focusing mainly on the influence of environmental pollution.

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes.

BACKGROUND: High demand on anti-aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process. AIM: To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin. METHODS: In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full-thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti-glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays. RESULTS: In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL-6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti-melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin-1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase-like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti-glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts. CONCLUSION: Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.